Praia Da Luz, Avenida Brasil Praia da Luz 4150
Wander into Porto and you’re immediately enveloped in narrow streets coloured with the tiles of elegant medieval townhouses.
Portugal’s second city is a jumble of stylish restaurants, cafes and artisan boutiques. Often eclipsed by its bigger sibling Lisbon, Porto's in the grips of a creative renaissance; the region has a rich heritage in luxury clothing manufacturing, and brims with mills and factories that make woven and knitted cottons and it's home to several of Folk’s suppliers. Check out the piano shirt, assembly pant and range of raglan sweats - to name a few, all proudly made in Portugal. Unsurprisingly, its food offering is fresh and clever too. It’s actually hard to get a bad meal in Porto, but here are some favourite restaurants and cafes to check out.
1) Traca, Largo São Domingos 88A
Stylish, double-floored restaurant in the old town that makes for a late and rowdy dinner. There are bare bulbs, a checkered tile floor and antlers hanging off walls. The wine list is long but casually-priced. Go for anything gamey - that’s what they do best.
2) Cafe Candelabro, Rua da Conceição 3, 4050-215
Is it a bookshop? Is it a bar? Is it a gallery? Who cares. Everything it does - cinema, theatre, art, food, wine - it does well. There are 70 wines by the glass, and snacks including hummus in five different styles. Or spill out onto the pavement, with a £4 cocktail in hand.
3) Praia Da Luz, Avenida Brasil Praia da Luz 4150
From Porto, catch the rickety tram down to Foz, a chichi suburb on a long, windswept shore. The best of all the beachside restaurants is this one. There are long wooden terraces, billowing canopies and cod cooked every which way.
4) Miss Opo, Rua dos Caldeireiros 100
A guest-house-cum-cafe on a little side street with a concrete, industrial look, mismatched furniture and a stream of musicians and exhibitions. Food changes daily and is chalked up on a board; a
brilliant meal of Portuguese small plates - say veal stuffed with fennel; grilled swordfish - comes to around £15 a head.
5) Cantinho do Avillez, Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira 166
Chef Jose Avillez is up there with the Michelin-contingent, but is Porto restaurant is more refreshingly straightforward than his Lisbon outposts. There’s a quirky arrangement of retro kitchenware and red banquettes, and food is local with flair. Fresh tuna with ginger and lime mayonnaise is a standout.