Photography: Hugh Johnson
Until recently, going for an Indian in London largely meant saucy curries, cheesy naans, oily poppdadoms, and cold Kingfisher beers. Which is all very nice fun and nice, but it doesn’t really do justice to how great Indian food can be. Now though, there’s a whole new wave of modern Indian restaurants springing up across London.
Our favourite is the newly opened Kricket, which happens to be a naan’s toss from our Folk store on Brewer Street, which launched two years ago in Soho’s clothing heartland. The store showcases our minimalist style of clean lines coupled with quality, natural materials. If you’re passing by, our SS17 clothing is fully stocked.
After which, you should make your way to Kricket on Denmark Street, the second restaurant from Will Bowlby and Rik Campbell, two friends who met at Newcastle University.
Photography: Hugh Johnson
The new Kricket is bigger and better than their Brixton first. For one, there’s a tandoor oven which means insanely buttery Indian breads, like kulchas that drip bone marrow and round and chewy parathas, perfect for soaking up spicy sauces.
The Anglo-Indian menu is short, well-considered and offers – of course – in small plates. There are no authentic India aspirations, the kitchen is all about putting seasonal British ingredients to a vaguely Indian use. Think fiery, fusiony.
Photography: Hugh Johnson
Photography: Hugh Johnson
The best offerings come from the vegetable section. Bhel puri, a street food snack of crisp and dry puffed rice oozing yoghurt and tamarind sauce is a wonderful take on Mumbai’s street food. There’s also a very slick pumpkin and paneer makhani, a creamy, tomato curry that doesn’t in any way resemble Brick Lane’s offerings.
If you need meat, try the kid goat raan, a brilliant reminder of why we should all be eating goat meat. Happily, the signature Keralan fried chicken, a massive hit in the Brixton branch, has also made its way to Soho.
Photography: Paul Winch Furness